Potatoes Cooked in Brown Butter: So French and So Clean

Almost every Christmas, my fiancée and future in-laws travel to France for a week to visit family friends, eat some good food, and exchange New York's"I'm walkin' here!" charm for Parisian eye-rolls and ennui. This past December, I got to tag along for the first time.

One of the best things I ate, though, didn't come out of a professional kitchen or cheese case. It was a simple side dish prepared and served by the family friends who hosted us—impossibly small new potatoes cooked in brown butter, sprinkled with sea salt, and served with a dollop of crème fraîche. As with my favorite kind of roasted potatoes, these"light" ones were overcooked in just the right way and had that same creamy softness when you bit through their crinkly, butter-coated skins, complemented by the crunch ofI began quizzing our host for her recipe while we were still at the dinner table. She was happy to give me the main plot points of the process, but she didn't whisk me away to the kitchen to give me that travel-writing anecdotal moment.

Whichever type of butter you use, I recommend going with unsalted. I tested this with a few different kinds of salted and semi-salted butter, but it's much harder to control the salinity levels in the dish when you're using butter that is already seasoned. You're better off seasoning with salt yourself.

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