How to Make Fermented Hot Sauce

Tim Chin is a professional cook and writer who started contributing to Serious Eats in early 2020. He holds a degree in Classic Pastry Arts at The International Culinary Center.Like many of us, I went all in on gardening in the spring and summer of 2020. As the days lengthened and rising temperatures thawed the last traces of a bleak New England winter, the collection of raised beds and fabric pots in my sliver of a backyard expanded.

So which method should you use to make hot sauce? I’d argue that, while vinegars are great tools for preservation, their use is akin to choosing a sledgehammer in place of a small mallet: One method is brutally effective, while the other shows finesse. Vinegar-based hot sauces tend to be one-dimensional in their flavor, and a bit harsh up front; the pepper flavor is raw—especially if you use it right away.

For those concerned about garlic and botulism, let’s be clear: We’ll be using airlocks to ferment the hot sauces. This means that there’s oxygen involved that will gradually be replaced by carbon dioxide. High concentrations of carbon dioxide are inhibitory to; paired with the low pH produced by LAB fermentation, there’s no reason to worry about contamination and food safety.Products like soy sauce, miso, and fish sauce are all umami-rich ingredients that can provide a welcome savory backbone.

Oxygen is the main enemy when it comes to limiting yeast and mold growth. The strategies here are multiple: For a brine, you can use a zipper lock bag of extra brine or fermentation weights to keep the chopped or whole chiles submerged. For mashes, you can cover the surface with plastic wrap and use fermentation weights; you can shake or stir the ferment daily to discourage unwanted growth; or you can sprinkle a layer of salt on the top surface to throttle microbial growth.

*Some might worry about opening up the jar to taste their ferment for flavor and acidity. Letting in oxygen could encourage yeast growth. But after a week or two, most of the fermentation should be complete: The system is acidified, and most of the free sugars have been metabolized. Under these conditions, kahm yeast has a much harder time growing.

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