A couple of years ago, Miuccia Prada took the familiar language of American prep and turned it on its ear at Miu Miu: Khaki trousers were reduced to skimpy, slutty minis, and blazers came with the traditional knee-length pleated skirt, but shirts were cut down to almost nothing, leaving a bare tummy. Prada and her team continued to savage American classics, with spectacular results.
On the first full day of New York Fashion Week, other designers put more muscle into their collections — Hillary Taymour, literally, with a charming bunch of clothes with built-in or trompe l’oeil musculature. “We’re doing strong women,” she said, with a laugh. In addition to a pregnant model and another toting a baby on her hip, Taymour’s cast for Collina Strada included several women who appeared to be weight-lifters, judging by their flexed arms, and the actress Gina Gershon.
After 15 years in the business, the past eight making clothes, Taymour says she feels really confident. “I started with $10,000 and I’ve never taken a loan,” she said, adding. “I try to challenge myself. I’m not competing with anyone in the industry. I’m competing with myself.” Peter Do opened his second show for Helmut Lang with Kirsten Owen, a model who personified the stark and minimalist look of the 1990s, in a white shirt and trousers that resembled fine bubble wrap. It was actually made of silk and the semi-transparent material was just one of the saving graces in Do’s collection, which showed more heft than his September debut.
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