I’ve had four meals at n/naka over the last decade, and each time I’ve shared a moment with the person across from me that’s hard to describe without resorting to an overblown word like “awakening.” Most recently it was with my colleague Stephanie Breijo, during the seventh of the evening’s 12 courses. The dish was mushimono, a kabocha mochi dumpling submerged in dashi underneath a shinjo of compressed shrimp and uni. A zap of yuzu raced across each bite like the leaping waveform on an EKG.
When Helen Rosner wrote a profile of chef-owner Niki Nakayama for the New Yorker a couple of years back, Nakayama told her she thought of her approach as “California kaiseki.” There’s no more apt description. She and Carole Iida, her wife and fellow chef, begin from the ritualized, multicourse form of kaiseki, which evolved out of foods served with the Japanese tea ceremony and emphasizes a mastery of many cooking techniques.
The most amazing thing about dining at n/naka may be the wide-open serenity you feel after a few hours in the 26-seat dining room, a sensation not unlike easing into the ninth day of a rare two-week vacation. Like, actually relaxed. And similar to carving out that kind of time off, you will have to fight like hell for a reservation at the restaurant. It will be worth it.
Joy and Pain never tastes so good. Thx for the support.
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HawkinsHOB Nzuri
HawkinsHOB Can I have a bite😋😋😋😋😋
SunNongDan I have had their excellent dduk guk MANY times already in 2022 :)
LangersDeli I order this last week and there was a bandaid in det bowl
LangersDeli The yellow-ish crinkle-cut shapes are called 'chips' happy to help.
latimes LangersDeli I worked there as a waitress in 1975 while going to college, I worked at the original, the one across from McCarther (?) Park near downtown L.A.
Awesome place. Great food, very well priced and the added bonus is being able to get a meal comprised of BOTH Holbox and Chichen Itza (and more) at Mercado la Paloma.
Gjelina Has their customer service changed, or is it still the worst in LA?
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BavelDTLA honestly my favorite sit down meal place in the city.
If I’m picking one special meal spot in L.A. for an occasional splurge, it’s Providence.
latimes
compliments to your typographer.
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You could have taken down the pay wall for this.
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settling in at a crowded counter are you out of your fucking minds
... ja, richtig: die (klein- bzw. gross-) bürgerliche Welt wird immer gewinnen - und auch ewig verlieren ⁉️ 🙃 🥩 🎄 👾 🤐 _____ ___ Eine Art ungeschriebenes Gesetz ?! Ko(s) misch es ge Set z 🎳 CosmicKiss FoodieBeauty restaurante Victor losers synchron
Where did McDonald's place on the list?
Thank you this means the world to our team🙏
Trying to subscribe , but can't 'cause I'm not in the US. Since it doesn't accept Brazilian zipcode, I tried 90210, but it messed with the payment
Can you recommend places outside LA so we don’t have to go there? DTLA is a dumpster fire.
Lisa vanderpump
No Damian?
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