Here are the best 101 restaurants in L.A.
I’ve had four meals at n/naka over the last decade, and each time I’ve shared a moment with the person across from me that’s hard to describe without resorting to an overblown word like “awakening.” Most recently it was with my colleague Stephanie Breijo, during the seventh of the evening’s 12 courses. The dish was mushimono, a kabocha mochi dumpling submerged in dashi underneath a shinjo of compressed shrimp and uni. A zap of yuzu raced across each bite like the leaping waveform on an EKG.
When Helen Rosner wrote a profile of chef-owner Niki Nakayama for the New Yorker a couple of years back, Nakayama told her she thought of her approach as “California kaiseki.” There’s no more apt description. She and Carole Iida, her wife and fellow chef, begin from the ritualized, multicourse form of kaiseki, which evolved out of foods served with the Japanese tea ceremony and emphasizes a mastery of many cooking techniques.
The most amazing thing about dining at n/naka may be the wide-open serenity you feel after a few hours in the 26-seat dining room, a sensation not unlike easing into the ninth day of a rare two-week vacation. Like, actually relaxed. And similar to carving out that kind of time off, you will have to fight like hell for a reservation at the restaurant. It will be worth it.
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