about the charms of the Old World, its narrow winding streets and grand piazzas, what they’re really conjuring is Rome: the gleaming edifice of the Vatican and the gargantuan ruins of the Colosseum, the wraiths of caesars and gladiators, polychrome street art splashed against imperial monuments, and sharp-suited Romans walking down cobblestones eating rustic pizza and potent gelato.
For all the faded splendor of the Eternal City, fussy cooking has never had much place here — the cuisine that evolved over the millennia had to feed the masses cheaply and efficiently, and flour and water became the basis for a delicious sort of alchemy.
Most Romans admit they’re slow to embrace the modern, even by Italian standards. But the last decade has seen some burgeoning shifts in how people eat. Pizza, long stiffly rooted in tradition, is being radicalized by a new generation of pizzaiolos embracing heirloom grains, fermented dough, and flashy toppings. Trattoria classics are going the way of Paris’s neo-bistro dishes as chefs reimagine them for an adventurous young audience with a focus on technique and sourcing.
So take it all in and dive into the thrilling new cuisine emerging from Rome’s peripheral neighborhoods and scrappy osterias. Or ignore all of that, bury yourself in piles of cheesy cacio e pepe and drippy scoops of stracciatella. Whatever you do, don’t overthink it — it’s Rome.
Good advice
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