‘Felt like a punch in the gut’: Asian chilli crunch makers including from Malaysia hit back at Momofuku’s trademark applicationA publicity shot for Momofuku chili crisp. Celebrity chef David Chang’s culinary empire has applied to trademark “chili crunch” in the United States, angering small producers. some of whom have received cease-and-desist letters from its lawyers. - Photo: Momofuku
Michelle Tew of Homiah Foods holds a jar of her chilli crisp . She says hers is based on a Nyonya family recipe dating back “countless generations” in Penang, Malaysia. - Photo: Instagram@homiahfoods “I was shocked and disappointed that a well-known and respected player in the Asian food industry would legally threaten me – a one-woman show operating on a much smaller scale – from selling a product that is part of my family’s history and culture.”
While not marketed as chili crisp, China’s Lao Gan Ma is its most well-known predecessor ; it was created in 1984 by Huabi Tao, whose face graces each label. The well-loved formula is a mix of soybeans, chili, peanuts, onion and other flavourings. Gao previously made an attempt to trademark her signature Sichuan chili crisp in June 2019. The UTSPO refused the application in August that year, on the grounds that “Sichuan chili crisp” was merely a descriptive term.Meanwhile, Rice Market, a grocery store based in Washington and specialising in Asian provisions, declared that it will no longer sell Momofuku products at its store.
Tew, who learned to cook from her Malaysian grandmother, chose to call her product “Sambal Chili Crunch”, as sambal, which typically includes ingredients such as chillies, shrimp paste, garlic and palm sugar, is not widely known outside of Southeast Asia and she needed to find a way to explain it to a foreign audience.
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