Eat the buggers: faux-meat maggot and mealworm burgers are the future

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Growing numbers of producers are exploring insects as a source of protein

Diners have increasingly warmed to the idea of burgers made from peas and coconut oil, crab cakes crafted from artichokes and kelp, and chicken nuggets formed with gluten and tapioca starch. Big food producers are betting they’ll soon welcome crickets, beetles, mealworms, and maggots to the mix as well.

The potential market got a big lift this year when the EU approved locusts and mealworms for human consumption, and EU regulators say they are examining applications for almost a dozen other species. Barclays predicts annual sales of edible bugs will grow to $8bn by 2030, from less than $1bn in 2019, a potential challenge to the $30bn plant-based faux-meat market.

Much of the research into boosting the appeal of plant-based faux meat will also help insect producers, says Eran Gronich, CEO of Flying Spark, an Israeli start-up backed by Thai Union. The company is working on seafood alternatives based on fruit fly larvae that take just a week to reach maturity. One product is a canned tuna substitute that is made by combining protein from the larvae with spices, flavouring, and colour to mimic the real thing.

Many companies are starting with food for animals. About 90% of the 3-million tonnes of insect protein expected to be produced in Europe in 2030 will go into animal feed or pet foods, according to the International Platform of Insects for Food and Feed, a nonprofit in Brussels. And for the past couple of years, companies such as Cargill, Archer-Daniels-Midland, and Purina have been making pet food, fish meal, and livestock feed that include bugs.

 

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