Why I'm Adding Pickled Shiso to—Well, Everything

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Why I'm adding pickled shiso to—well, everything.

If I’ve scored wild mushrooms while out on a bike ride, or if the radishes at the market looked especially cheery that day, or if I’m just managing the glut of tomatoes my kitchen garden produced, there is always something I don’t want to have spoil that could live another life, if only I made time to preserve it. After some reading to investigate how to capture red shiso’s best qualities, I landed on pickled shiso.

Rather than create a traditional brine, I took inspiration from shiso's presence in Japanese cuisine and used shoyu as the base. The shoyu performs double duty: It is salty but also earthy, adds more depth to the shiso than the leaves relay on their own. In many pickle recipes, I use chili peppers and garlic, so they’re natural aromatic additions. In this preparation with the delicate leaves they are minced. When I create a brine I often add a small amount of sugar to balance the saltiness. Here I chose maple syrup—also earthy—and its mellow sweetness makes a great complement.

The tricky thing is, now that I’ve made pickled shiso a couple times, I wish I’d known about it sooner. Pickled shiso is now part of my permanent repertoire and I cannot wait to see its beautiful leaves unfold next year and get to work bottling the season.

 

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