Where Will Skin Care Go From Here?

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What to if you’ve messed up your skin barrier, why skincare as self-care can go too far, and what “skinimalism” really means

Illustration: by Luci Pina Before the pandemic struck, skin care was booming. Then came a year of isolation that forced many people into working and socializing primarily online. Lockdown inadvertently created the perfect environment for staring at your own pixelated pores, whether on social media or on apps like Zoom. What happens to a skin-care obsessive after a full 12 months of this?

When the pandemic started, everyone was like, I’m going to try the insane treatment that I was too scared to do ’cause if I fuck it up, it’s not a big deal ’cause I’m a recluse, and no one has to see me ’cause I can just turn off my Zoom. I don’t know if you saw on Google Trends — I actually wrote an article for Teen Vogue about skin-barrier repair — but basically, there was an uptick in the Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution right when the pandemic went down.

The thing to remember is that if you’ve really messed up your skin barrier, basically anything you put on it is going to sting. Something as gentle as La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair Face Moisturizer is going to sting a little bit, and the most important thing is to baby your skin and to not use anything that is resurfacing. Avoid the retinols. Avoid the glycolic acids.

I think that we are already on the path of more skinimalism because people have hurt themselves. The thing is, if you’re using a 20 percent vitamin C, a retinol, a glycolic acid, a salicylic acid, and you’re using one of those skin scrubbers, you’re physically injuring your skin. Very few people would be able to walk out of that unscathed. My hope is that most people, when they put their hand in the fire, they don’t continue to put their hand in the fire.

 

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