What Does Toner Do for Skin?

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And do you need to use it?

Photo-Illustration: The Cut, Photos: Getty Images Cleanse, tone, and moisturize — it’s the three-step routine that most of us learned in high school . The cleansing or moisturizing parts made sense, but to me, the toning step always seemed suspect. Was that bottle of clear stuff really necessary? And what did it even do, besides use up a lot of cotton balls?

Indeed, the typical toner has changed a lot over the past several decades, along with its function. In the 1990s and early aughts, toners tended to be very acidic . Most were also heavy on the denatured alcohol, says dermatologist Ranella Hirsch. This was to counteract the alkaline properties of most facial cleansers made at the time, which could disrupt the skin’s pH balance.

The other reason that old-school toners were so popular was they gave your face that squeaky-clean feeling — which, as it turns out, might not have been so great after all. “You felt like they were deeply cleaning your skin,” says Dr. Hirsch. “You’d put some toner on a cotton pad and wipe it over your face, and when you looked at the pad, it would have all this dark gunk on it. Which was super gross but satisfying, because you thought it was dirt or grime that had been removed.

“If you apply a hydrating toner, and then put moisturizer over the top, the moisturizer will lock the moisture in,” says Dr. Hirsch. Hydrating toners are sometimes called essences, softeners or lotions, but these terms don’t have strict definitions — they just mean that a product has some skin-softening or hydrating benefits.

 

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