production— but it was not to be, for reasons that will soon become unpleasantly clear. On a rainy, muggy afternoon I embarked, without an umbrella but with the reassuring companionship of Kelly Faircloth, who informed me that she’d been to Hershey’s before, and it was, as she put it, “fine.”
There was, it quickly became clear, no exciting weird flavors in the Hershey’s store, nor any particularly fun decor; there were just standard shelves, with a lot of standard Hershey’s items on them. “It’s just a candy aisle of a Duane Reade,” Kelly astutely observed, “but blown out to ludicrous proportions? It should bemore Wonka-ish.
“S’mores,” she said at last, thoughtfully, as we quietly slid most of the tray into the garbage, “are as much about the experience as much as they’re about the s’more.”A s’more generally requires an open flame, so I was curious what kind of product would emerge from the kitchen, where everything seemed to be cooked in some kind of conveyor belt-oven deal. I decided to find out. I ordered a s’more topped with a with Reese’s Pieces bar.
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