or cream—is bone-white, this springtime version uses the tops of spring onions to create a bright green sauce with subtle vegetal sweetness that's balanced with smoky bacon, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and lots of freshly ground pepper. Tossed with a sauce-grabbing pasta shape like orecchiette, it's an easy and delicious alternative to the ubiquitous puréed soups that are in constant rotation this time of year.
Once the bacon is cooked through, I fish the rashers out of the pan and cut them into bite-sized morsels. I set the bacon aside, but leave all the rendered fat right in the skillet. Once the vegetables have softened slightly, I add in a pinch of baking soda. Baking soda weakens vegetable cell walls, which speeds up the softening process during cooking. This is a huge help for recipes that involve puréeing, especially when you want to preserve the green color of a vegetable, which can be dulled with the normal approach to vegetable softening: cooking the hell out of it.
Now it's time to buzz it all up into a smooth purée. Because the vegetables are so soft, the blending process is quick, which keeps the mixture from overheating and dulling the color. Because we'll be finishing the pasta in the sauté pan, I pour the purée back into the pan, passing it through a fine-mesh strainer along the way for extra smoothness.finish it in the sauce
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