Traditional or Not, There's Technique at the Heart of Teriyaki Burgers

I haven't told my mom I've been working on a recipe for teriyaki burgers, but if I did, I'd probably get the same reaction as if I told her I was practicing how to yodel naked while sitting in a bathtub full of mayonnaise. A sort of puzzledstare.

Of course, that doesn't mean that it doesn't go well with hamburgers. It does. Spectacularly so, in fact. So well that evenBut, as I quickly discovered, you can't just go to the store, buy a bottle of sauce, and start dousing your burger in it willy-nilly. You'll end up with burnt, acrid-tasting sauce, or sauce that just runs off the burger into the grill or, worse, soaks into your bun until it disintegrates.My first step was to ditch the store-bought sauce.

Only after the burger was close to its final serving temperature did I start brushing with the sauce. I brushed my burgers when they hit 110°F as measured with an instant-read thermometer. That way, by the time I applied another few layers of glaze, they'd hit 120°F and continued to rise to around 125 or 130°F after they'd come off the grill. They ended up perfectly medium rare.

One of the keys to great teriyaki flavor is layering the sauce. It's just like layering paint on a wall. In a Japanese teriyaki fish or eel house, the cooks will dip or brush the meat in sauce a half dozen or more times as it cooks. I wanted to do something similar with my burgers, so I brushed them at least three times while they were still on the grill.

And there it is. Deeply flavorful with smoke from the grill and layers of sweet and savory glaze, this is one of my favorite burgers of the summer so far.one of my favorites, because it disappeared within seconds of taking these photos. And no, Mom, you can't have any.

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