Top Chef Houston Episode 14: Technique trumps soul in finale

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Even though the ending wasn’t the one I wanted, I rejoiced each week at seeing Evelyn...

Even though the ending wasn’t the one I wanted, I rejoiced each week at seeing Garcia’s talents amply recognized in a high-profile forum. I loved her buoyant presence, and that fact that her emotions bubbled so quickly to the surface.

Alexander Smalls, the Harlem chef and winner of the 2019 James Beard Award for Best American Cookbook, jumped in to protest, “I agree with you, but the overall feeling I was left with was just delicious!” As the three chefs headed back across a field to their kitchen to plate their second courses, Buddha bolted on ahead. “Buddha, don’t run!” cried Evelyn as she and Sarah brought up the rear. I had a bad feeling some foreshadowing was in play.

Then, after another judge said the seafood preparations involved were “pretty perfect” , guest judge Ed Lee, an alumnus of Top Chef Texas, won my heart by interjecting, “If you are not seduced by the visuals, some things worked better than others.”Alas, our gal’s third dish, braised goat neck in a “curry mole” sauce that blended two of her favorite techniques, was not a soaring success. The curry-and-mole blend looked loose and muddy. She had to keep wiping the plates to neaten up the look.

My hopes rose again as Buddha-don’t-run’s complex homage to pumpkin pie — a heartstring-tugging allusion to American Thanksgiving and his gratitude for the opportunities he’s found in in this country — arrived with a flurry of vivid tuiles in the shape of autumn leaves, and too little of the maple caramel “surprise” on the bottom.

 

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