If the truest stereotype about Los Angeles maintains that traffic is hellacious, the least factual trope posits that millions of Angelenos stigmatize carbohydrates. Have you noticed how many Italian restaurants thrive in this city, and how many keep opening? The hunger for pasta is relentless.
Opened in 2019, Antico Nuovo has steadily found its footing and its audience among the crush of fine-dining Italian restaurants in Los Angeles. It might just be the best of them now. Bold or tenuous, each of the pastas stands out with such distinct personalities; they are the meal’s holy center. Begin by swiping crisp, lofty hunks of focaccia through roughly pureed green chickpeas rich in garlic and olive oil, or go lighter with impeccable amberjack crudo.
Meat cookery remains the menu’s nucleus. Beyond massive, ever-excellent steaks, consider the slightly more manageable pork loin: It’s roasted in milk and covered, as if spring never ends, in a fine dusting of fennel pollen. Burgers are available on Mondays and Tuesdays for customers who specifically reserve at Chi Spacca’s chef’s counter.
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