The State of Barbecue in Dallas: The Old Guard, Revolutionaries and Social Media

In the first decade following the turn of the century, Dallas’ barbecue scene was a big city melting pot. Part of this stems from barbecue’s Texas roots. If you find someone who grew up in Texas, chances are they had a barbecue restaurant in their town that was the go-to. And as Texas native and currentfood editor Lauren Drewes Daniels once explained to me, “Small towns don’t eat other small towns’ barbecue.

"Since the '70s, the essence of who our dad was and the service he provided is still the same," says Brent Reaves, who along with his brother Juan, took over their father's restaurant."Those intangible things are the reason why people become repeat customers." "We have had to step our game up. Our brisket process only takes three times longer than it did 10 years ago," says Reaves."We’ve changed some of our family recipes to create more flavor. We didn’t want to be left behind."

Cattleack Barbecue was a time filler during retirement for Todd David — a catering operation in a small warehouse in Farmers Branch. Customers eventually convinced him to open for lunch one day a week. David's barbecue was good, but he struggled with getting consistent quality beef from his suppliers.

And in Fort Worth, Travis Heim had started doing pop-ups to scratch his meat-smoking itch, which turned into the lauded Heim Barbecue food truck in 2015. Brisket burnt ends were already regarded as a bite of barbecue nirvana, but Heim turned the burnt end on its head when he began curing seasoning cubes of pork belly then blasting them in his smoker. Heim's bacon burnt ends became the talk of the town, and Heim's success led to a Dallas location in 2020.

"They kept causing fires," Manning said, having realized he couldn't risk his restaurant because of sentimentality. While being conscious of his customer base who loved his dad's barbecue, Manning knew he would need to evolve to stay relevant.

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