The Reshaping of Couture: A Reflection on the Fall 2021 Season

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The fall 2021 couture season was shape-shifting on many levels. Here's our full breakdown.

Photo: Courtesy of Iris Van HerpenCouture shouldn’t be such a slippery subject. You can look it up in a dictionary, for one. And, in 1945 the governing body of French fashion, now known as the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, registered a legal designation of “Haute Couture.” Still, the métier remains the Greta Garbo of the fashion system: glamorous, mysterious, and elusive.Viktor & RolfPhoto: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.

There are times, such as now, when couture feels vital, the highest expression of new ideas. But there have been periods, such as after the infusion of energy provided by Christian Lacroix in the late 1980s, when couture seemed to be operating in an “I want to be left alone” mode. When that happens, hands are wrung until, with perfect timing, the “star” gathers her skirts, raises her chin, and makes a grand entrance once again—always in a new guise. She’s taken on a new role this season.

When we talk about couture, we are really talking about shape-shifting. It’s not only that silhouettes change, but we periodically reconfigure the meaning we assign to couture as well. And often this is related to changes in the ways we look at women’s bodies and roles in society. At around the same time that Coco Chanel introduced the streamlined, cylindrical, and somewhat androgynous silhouette, American women had gained suffrage and the Model T was being mass-produced.

We didn’t get a single new silhouette for fall 2021, but we did get a reshaping of couture on material and conceptual levels—along with four debuts.

 

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Damn so cute

These designs look like a first year fashion student exploring their creative side

Wow sooo beautiful ❤️

which of your season till date according to you have been the most successful? I would like to go through it.

Looking like a fish out of water

In the strong desire to impress and be different, some produce absolute horrors. I love the confidence that beauty and class and quality are most important. Armani is a talent that doesn’t need to shock.

SparkleAlice

This is going to be amazingg 😍

This is gonna be a blast

What colour is that

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