with traditional and inspired recipes from Italy’s 20 regions. Get ready for a carb-driven journey through the trattorias of Rome, the kitchens of Sicily , rural Campania, and beyond. Fire up a pot of water, and andiamo!dressed with oxtail sauce—enjoys pride of place alongside the city’s better-known dishes like carbonara and cacio e pepe. And not just because it’s extremely delicious: It speaks to Roman pragmatism, offering two dishes in one pot.
When locals don’t have the time to prepare both a primo and secondo , they hit two birds with one stone. They’ll braise meat—oxtails, in this case—in tomato sauce, then use the fat-slicked, brick-red sauce to dress pasta, reserving the meat for the main. In a non-Italian setting, where guests aren’t expecting a primo and secondo, it makes sense to combine the two courses. I pull the tender oxtail meat from the bone and fold it back into the sauce, making a flavorful ragù to toss with pasta.
I teased this sugo di coda recipe out of my ex’s mom, Teresa. She never let me in the kitchen—the room seemed to be her only escape from her difficult children—so I had to interrogate her about each step at the dinner table as she stabbed her rigatoni with a fork. I can still remember how she’d emerge with that deep ceramic bowl of pasta, drenched in glistening sauce punctuated with rogue strands of meat, after hours spent watching the pot sputter behind the closed door.
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