June 7, 2021, 6:38 PM UTCis an award-winning culinary historian, cookbook author and journalist who specializes in the food and foodways of the African diaspora. With this column,"My Culinary Compass," she is taking people all over the world — via their taste buds — with recipes inspired by her extensive travels.
I journeyed to Benin for the first time in 1972 to do research for my doctorate. Since then, I’ve visited the country many times and learned to love its people, its history and especially its food. Benin is eternal, but I always want to connect the past and to the present. Present day Cotonou, the country’s commercial capital, is a sleepy town with sandy streets humming with traffic and its own ubiquitous motorcycle taxis known as zemijan , an apt name considering their irritating way of buzzing in and out of already crazy traffic patterns.Benin is also the motherlode for any lover of West African markets.
The maquis are my favorites. All they require is someone with a folding table, a few chairs or stools an outdoor grill and a deft hand with preparing the poisson or poulet braisé . I learned to drink La Fiole du Pape, a crook-necked Côte du Rhône that turns up on wine lists in the tropics.
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