Anyone who was at Anthony Vaccarello’s terrific winter 2020 runway show for Saint Laurent was inevitably floored by the color and the fact that there was plenty of it. Actually, maybe I should scream that out: color! Or just spell it out—c-o-l-o-r—so that it’s as monumental as the Eiffel Tower that stands gleaming in the night sky and is always in the direct line of vision from the YSL show venue.
This collection of many colors wasn’t business as usual chez Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent. He has been a master of nuance at the Parisian house. Many a season has seen a textural layering of black on black on black—by turns an imagining of it as romantic, sexual, or folkloric.
Of course, anyone who’d looked at this fall collection, a season typically not seen publicly until it’s actually in the stores, might have gotten a clue that color was on his mind. “I started really enjoying those mixes of colors with the fall,” Vaccarello said. “It gave me the idea and desire to continue it for winter. I always thought that [color] was not my thing...but with time I have to say I just love mixing those improbable colors together, like in a painting.
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