Walter Soto stood under a makeshift tent in an industrial corner of Boyle Heights, making tacos in rapid batches of four. He pitched handfuls of shredded Monterey Jack cheese onto the griddle in neat piles; the strands hissed and buckled in the heat before fusing into lacy circles.
Soto is a native of Tijuana. He was 17 when he landed his first job as a taquero in Culiacán, Sinaloa; he bounced around Nuevo Laredo and Guadalajara before landing in Ímuris, Sonora, a town 65 miles south of the Arizona border. It was there Soto met Silva, when she walked in as a customer to the taqueria where he was working. She’s been making flour tortillas since she was 4; her mother is a tortilla artist, she said, and passed down her talents.
Saturday, when the glorious stewed meats appear, is really the day to show up at El Ruso right now. The Tijuana-style birria de res follows a recipe from Soto’s mother, the beef simmered in Tecate lager scented with clove and bay leaf. Soto dips tortillas in the birria consommé, dying them traffic-cone orange, before griddling them. The spice in the Sonoran-style chile colorado comes across more earthen than incendiary. Its rich, satiny texture is deep-sigh soothing.
...its...
guys. 🙆🏼♀️
sounds yummy! (& a friendly / hungry nudge on the headline typo re: “its”)
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