At Bebot Filipino Soul Food in Long Beach, chef AC Boral’s brunch menu includes Scotch eggs swaddled in longanisa sausage; bright purple ube-mochi waffles brushed with butter and coconut jam; and a halo-halo-inspired breakfast parfait made from Greek yogurt layered with gemstones of varicolored jellies, jams and fruit-flavored flan.
A member of Boral’s family recently described these dishes as “millennial Filipino food,” a catchy label that he says captures the spirit and youthfulness of his first-generation, Filipino American cooking.But he prefers to call it “Filipino soul food” — cooking grounded in the foods he grew up eating around the family table, channeled through the sensibilities of a self-taught chef with a predilection for big, bombastic flavors.
Pancit, the classic Filipino stir-fried noodle dish, is re-created as a creamy, carbonara-like wheat noodle dish spiked with shrimp, salty nubs of Spam and chile flakes sprinkled on top like glitter. A vegan version boosted with citrus, soy and mushrooms achieves deep, concentrated umami flavor.One of the cleverest and most delicious dishes is on the ever-changing dessert menu: a nutty, rich and elegant bibingka brûlée.
Pork is celebrated in dish after dish, particularly on the “old school” side of the menu. Twice-cooked pork belly adobo is a triumph of voluptuousness; the meat is roasted, then braised in a coconutty broth full of creaminess and depth. Lechon kawali — salty, ultra-fatty morsels of pork belly — have thin, crackly edges, primed to shatter.
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