Ones to Watch: London Fashion Week Fall 2021

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London's emerging designers this season look to escapism, optimism and cultural heritages with an upcycled approach to design.

Rory Parnell Mooney, who showed with Fashion East/MEN for three seasons and hosted a stand-alone presentation back in 2015-16, is returning to the London Fashion Week official calendar via the British Fashion Council’s DiscoveryLAB program with a new direction.

During his break, the designer spent a few years teaching at London’s fashion schools and started to think about what his brand really is about. The result is a gender-bending and eco-conscious collection with a touch of Space Age nostalgia that features playful puffer jackets and bodysuits made from upcycled floral bedsheets, a giant pussy bow bra top, and loosely crocheted deadstock yarn tops and skirts, priced between 200 to 500 pounds.

Joining LFW’s digital showcase, which is open to all, means his label, which “looks beyond national borders and into a digital realm where everything is possible,” not only can reach industry professionals, but also “the curious fashion lovers at home in need of some fantasy and flair in these dark times.”On Saturday, Nick Palmer will present his first collection since graduating from Central Saint Martins MA fashion in 2018 with DiscoveryLAB.

Born and raised in Indiana, Palmer moved to New York in 2008 to study at The New School’s Parsons School of Design. Before moving to London, he worked at Ralph Lauren, Perry Ellis, John Varvatos, and Coach under Stuart Vevers.Meaning “having an edge” in Latin, Labrum London was founded in 2014 by Foday Dumbuya with an aim to make practical, honest clothing that combines West African and British heritage. The brand will show on LFW’s official calendar for the first time on Friday.

 

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