Photo:time in the Italian border town of Muggia. A few families headed to the waterfront, passing underneath the archways of the Renaissance-era loggia. An old woman led her recalcitrant Maltese into the salumeria past windows displaying Italian sausage, truffles and the Balkan spicy pepper condiment known as ajvar. In this approximately 13,000-person town on the Istrian peninsula, at the point just before Italy dissolves into Slovenia, borders are often imaginary things.
Many of the waterfront hamlets of the Istrian peninsula—a piece of land now split among Italy, Slovenia and Croatia—were once Venetian possessions. Even now, they are marked architecturally by distinctive campanile, or bell-towers, as well as by the sort of sinuously sloping windows, many garlanded by vines, seen in some of Muggia’s private houses.
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