Is This the End of the Road for Michelin in America?

A Michelin guide from 1900. Photo: adoc-photos/Corbis via Getty Images Right now, there is so much to look forward to: the day when our in-boxes are no longer filled with campaign fundraising pleas, the far-off afternoon when the sight of a stranger’s unmasked face doesn’t trigger pangs of alarm, a time when the whole world no longer feels as if it’s teetering on the brink of collapse.

The James Beard Foundation has halted its annual restaurant awards for at least another year and is in the midst of a messy foundation-wide reckoning. The World’s 50 Best has shifted its focus from restaurant ranking to industry recovery. And Michelin, the most storied name in the restaurant-awards game, announced that it has indefinitely delayed the release of its 2021 guides in America.

During the best of times, Michelin’s city guides manage to be both incredibly silly and undeniably popular. The annual October release of the New York guide is big news, at which point we all begin dutifully breaking down each year’s winners and losers. Michelin, as a restaurant-ranking organization, tends to be incredibly self-important, frustratingly opaque about its operation, and curiously out of touch with other local critics.

This is not a knock on the Michelin-targeting restaurants or the extremely hardworking people that run them. Talk to almost any chef or owner who has been on the receiving end of Michelin’s praise and they will tell you that the monetary value of the tire company’s stars is very tangible, not only in increased business from travelers, but in increased business opportunities: cookbook deals, access to funding for new restaurants, demand to expand an empire around the country or world.

asytsma They’ve gotten petty and self important. I miss zagats

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