It is not unreasonable to approach Alchemist with dread. The very doors of Copenhagen’s new restaurant are meant to be imposing—more than two tons of hand-sculpted bronze pointedly reminiscent of Rodin’sthat open as portentously as if Satan himself were waiting on the other side. Nor is its chef’s reputation any less daunting:is the guy who, in the restaurant’s previous incarnation, served a blood and cherry sauce in an IV bag, and another dish fashioned to look like a used ashtray.
Alchemist flies smack in the face of the naturalistic, terroir-based cooking most closely associated with this part of the world . It is the kind of place to build both menu and decor around an annually changing theme—diversity for its debut—and that, without a shred of irony, can describe itself as inspired by both Aristotle and Brecht, and as “a parallel journey through...unique physical spaces as well as through your own senses.
Subtle these messages are not, and that’s before Alchemist reaches the apotheosis of on-the-nose in the LGBTQ room that leads from the dome.
Yet for all of the provocations, Munk takes an old-school approach to service: More than anything, he wants his guests to feel well cared for, and none of the more political aspects of a meal at Alchemist are intended as pressure. Rather, he sees what he does as raising questions. He chose Alchemist’s first theme because he—along with the board of chefs and artists that advises him on creative matters—believes that questions of inclusion and diversity demand attention right now.
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