In the Midst of a Border Crisis, Cooking Is About More Than Survival

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Every day, more and more asylum seekers get turned away at the U.S.-Mexico border to wait in a dangerous Matamoros tent camp. But they’ve found their own ways of coping.

To prepare the steaming vat of caldo de pollo, someone has to tend the fire. Another person must deal with the wind that kicks up the dirt and garbage. And still others run to the grocery store, chop the vegetables, and haul drinking water from the communal cistern. Here at the tent camp under the Gateway International Bridge, which connects Matamoros, Mexico, with Brownsville, Texas, everything is made fresh out of necessity. There is no pantry, no refrigerator.

Until January 2019 asylum seekers were permitted to enter the U.S., with most eligible to work, while their cases were reviewed. But a new policy imposed by the Trump administration, known as "Remain in Mexico" or the Migrant Protection Protocols ,. Now people seeking asylum under U.S. and international law are sent to Mexico—far from attorneys and families—while their cases are processed, which could take years. This camp, as with other similar migrant camps across the U.S.

Marisela’s son, like many of the children, was suffering from diarrhea. When volunteer doctors informed her that the cause was malnourishment, she decided to take action. Melissa, Jose, Areli, and Marisela pooled their money to form a cooking cooperative. “I have to be careful about the food that I give my son,” she tells me, chopping carrots, potatoes, chayote, and corn into a large stew pot. “This way I know how the food is prepared, what’s in it.

It’s an effort that began with a few dozen breakfast tacos—or as they’re known in South Texas, taquitos—in the summer of 2018. With temperatures hovering in the triple digits, news had spread across the Rio Grande Valley that U.S. immigration agents were suddenly accepting only a few asylum claims a day, or none at all, in a policy known as “metering.” Families became stranded on the bridges, and locals on both sides of the border sounded alarms for help through text messages and Facebook posts.

 

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Thank you for this article. It is sad that this administration is so cruel but also uplifting to see that people are helping each other survive.

IvankaTrump Wondering if you read this yet?

Please stick to food. Asylum seekers don't walk over the border, they go through proper channels.

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