The best—and honestly only—way to get good at most things is to do them over, and over, and over. Then do them again. And again. That's an advantage restaurant cooks have over home cooks. In a single night, a line cook can fire off as many steaks or roast chickens or pastas as others make in a year. It's one of the things I loved most about my time working in restaurants, when I could obsess for weeks on end about pan roasting a fish fillet or poaching eggs until I had perfected it.
Sure, you could ask the fishmonger to do it all for you, but what's the fun in that? You gotta start your repetitive practice somewhere.One of the advantages of working with whole fish is that you're able to really see how fresh the fish is—if you know what signs to look for. And you really should look, because there's lots of not-great fish out there.
The bad fish had a terrible fishy odor that immediately made me cringe. A good fish will smell like a fish, but it should be a clean, fresh scent...sometimes I even think a pristine fresh fish has a whiff of cucumber to it.The bad fish had a sunken look to its flesh, and felt almost mushy under the skin; when pressed on a meaty part, it left a deep indentation behind.
If you do want to scale the fish yourself, you can use the dull side of your knife, running it against the direction of the scales , but it's even easier if you have a proper fish scaler, which makes a much better and faster job of it.This may sound redundant, since the scales were just removed by you or the fishmonger in step one, but it's worth double checking—scales are literally armor, and even a few can make filleting much more difficult to do.
If you need to take a peek under as you go, you can gently lift the fillet; just be careful not to bend it back too much or you can tear the flesh. Make another cut behind the head, angling toward the head as you go deeper to avoid losing good meat.
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