How NYC’s Nakaji Is Taking Diners Deep Into the Delicious World of Uni

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A delightful sea urchin education.

is an exercise in traditional Edomae technique—all passed down to Nakajima, a third-generation sushi master, from his grandfather and father.Nakajima, who worked in the States for 25 years before opening Nakaji, noticed that more American customers were starting to enjoy and ask for uni, and he decided to create a “real Japanese uni experience.

Of course, sea urchins grow in all corners of the ocean, in warm and cold waters , and the 30 or so edible species come in different shapes, sizes, colors and grades. This writer has eaten uni plucked from the shores of Martinique and cooked in a Créole stew; chefs have served me uni in zippy ceviches, crowning baked oysters and swirled into whiskey sauces and bowls of pasta.

 

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