The Bon Appétit test kitchen. Photo: Bon Appétit/Youtube Ever since I first saw the recipe, I’ve been wondering what Weeknight Pad Thai is. Or Weeknight Mapo Tofu. For anyone familiar with these two iconic dishes of Thai and Sichuan cuisine, respectively, these titles are confounding. Both are tossed together quickly in a hot pan, and would be made worse by a longer cooking process. The weeknight modifier makes no sense.
The cues are also a clue that, for all of the apologizing and soul-searching that’s happening in food media right now, the people in charge are going to have to dig much deeper to fix the medium’s intrinsic racism. Of course, more BIPOC need to be put in positions of real power, and BIPOC industry members already have some of the answers. See Studio ATAO’s extensive Toolkit for Recognizing, Disrupting, and Preventing Tokenization in Food Media for a comprehensive plan that replaces the weak routine of corporate diversity efforts with specific, actionable steps and warnings.
For example, this attitude can lead to bitter disputes over beloved foods — just what is going on with that Weeknight Mapo Tofu recipe, which includes basil and tomato paste, anyway? — and is divorced from the deliberate choices made by the author every step of the way. So publishing recipes with vague or hidden attribution creates a sense of authority or collective agreement that simply isn’t real.
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