Diving into San Diego's surfing culture

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Local surfers coast through the history, activism and artistry of surfing in San Diego.

S1: It's time for Midday Edition on KPBS. Surfing is part of San Diego culture , and today we're going to dive into the history and art of the sport. I'm Jade Hindman. Here's to conversations that keep you informed , inspired , and make you think. We'll talk with a local professor who teaches a college course in surfing.S1: Plus , the nonprofit panel for peace talks about diversifying the sport , and a local surfboard shaper talks about the art of making boards.

S2: That is the case. Um , really ? Surfing originated in Polynesia before common times. The first recorded instance of Western people observing surfing is with , uh , Captain James Cook when he , um , anchored in Tahiti in 1769. Uh , he saw some Tahitians standing up and and writing boards on waves. Uh , later we we found out that it was really Tahitians who settled the Hawaiian Islands.

S2: And , uh , what the course intends to do is to introduce students to surfing as a sport , but also a culture. And that culture is largely informed by the surf industry , which emerges in about the 1960s , largely in San Diego. And so you have surfboard manufacturers like Gordon and Smith Surfboards , who I just mentioned. Uh , they will become very , very prolific , providing well designed surfboards at an affordable price.

S5: And that's how we increase the representation of black and brown communities in the outdoor space. If we can't find them , we create them. S5: So we actually did not start with kids. We had kids. It wasn't kid centered. So when we first started , it was just anyone who was Bipoc , black and brown. Come and take a free surf lesson. Message us on Instagram. At the time it was me , messaged me on Instagram and so I was kind of like , I felt like almost every day giving surf lessons.

S5: So I never did until I went to Hawaii. And I saw a bunch of brown people surfing , and I was like , oh , I want to take a lesson. Like , how cool. Um , so I took my first lesson there , and then I came back to San Diego and I was determined to surf , but I didn't have the guidance. I didn't really see a lot of people that looked like me in the lineup. I was out there by myself every single day alone. Um , and then I started making friends.

S1: Like , and I have to say this , I know we were talking about you guys mentioned segregation earlier , like blacks Beach. That's one of the key surf spots. Right. But that beach was segregated for quite some time. Absolutely.S5: Yeah. And I feel like even now you know. But Blacks Beach is such a good surf break. And like a lot of experienced surfers go there. You don't see a.

 

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