Cookbooks Are Finally Telling the Truth About the Worst Part of Cooking

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The dishes! They are never going away.

We dream, we plan, we crave, we shop, we chop, we fry, we simmer, we garnish, we serve. And then we eat, sometimes alone and sometimes not, and when the eating is done, a mess remains, a record of our pleasure. We must put spices back on their racks, the halved butter stick back in the fridge before it pools on the counter. We must transfer braised greens and ladlefuls of curry into containers that will keep them from spoiling.

Eat, and then when you’re done, store the rice separate from the soup, or else it will become a big brothless glump. It’s obvious why recipes omit this bit: It would make them too depressing. People read recipes for inspiration and reassurance, not for a glaring reminder of chores. The two-page spread appeared like a revelation, a lesson I did not know I needed. Of course, I didn’t adopt Kristen’s strategies. I kept doing things my own inefficient way. But I began to wonder how cookbooks might illuminate and investigate our processes for cleaning up. I began to want more of this holistic instruction.

 

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