Beyond Bourbon Street: How New Orleans is Pushing Musical Tradition into the Future

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From Beyoncé’s favorite brass band to a “magical” backyard venue that draws huge names, a guide to New Orleans' rich musical gumbo

, a long-running weekly where you’ll find partner dancing, bolo ties, and, possibly, some suspect homemade coleslaw — along with local and touring bands bringing new life to time-warped sounds.While you’ll hear every incarnation of traditional jazz and blues on Frenchmen, things get a bit fringier on Saint Claude in the New Marigny, where a growing number of clubs have coalesced. “Saint Claude reminds me of what Frenchmen was 20 years ago,” says Mercurio.

People participate in a second line parade in New Orleans, in honor of famed New Orleans musician Mac ‘Dr John’ Rebennack, who passed away in June 2019. Photo credit: Gerald Herbert/AP/Shutterstock, a gathering that features musicians like Iman Omari or jazz trumpeter Christian Scott aTunde Adjuah, who plays with a DJ. And yes: there are a bunch of couches to watch from. “It’s dope,” says Ball. The moving event has been hosted in galleries, churches, and homes, and occurs bimonthly.

Tarriona ‘Tank’ Ball of Tank and the Bangas performs at the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival in New Orleans. Photo credit: Amy Harris/Invision/AP/ShutterstockExisting somewhere between a musical playground, a living sculpture garden, and a performance space,is an experiment in “musical architecture” located in a wooded acre in the Upper 9th. Tank and the Bangas, Wilco, and Animal Collective have all played; Orville Peck will do so this May. “It’s incredibly magical,” says Ball.

 

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