A Tamarind Tree’s Sweet and Sour Inheritance

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Madhur Jaffrey on her family’s huge orchard just outside Delhi, and how the fruits it produced were the taste of her childhood.

The British put down the rebellion and my ancestor, whom Indians today might call a toady, helped. “We have eaten their salt,” he said, by which he meant that since he had been paid a salary by the British, he was honor-bound to support them. For this, the British gifted him and his family a huge orchard just north of Old Delhi’s city walls, on the banks of the Yamuna River. On a bluff that eventually became his, my grandfather built a large house for his children and grandchildren.

Around early winter, the fruit is green and screechingly sour, but by late spring or early summer it turns into a sticky, jammy, sweet-and-sour brown pulp covered loosely by a hard, brown shell. We children devoured the tamarind in all its forms. Sometimes the pods just fell to the ground as nature’s gift. But most of the time we had to summon help to shake things up. This was nearly always Masoom Ali, our grandfather’s fez-wearing driver.

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