A Guide to Great Tomato Bruschetta, in Season and Out

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Rule 1: Don't use crappy tomatoes.

I am a bruschetta pedant. So please, bear with me as I whine for just a minute about a couple of the biggest sins committed against Italy's most famous tomato-topped toast.. I admit that mispronouncing a name isn't a true transgression, but in this case, it's enough of a pet peeve of mine that I couldn't resist the opportunity to correct literally thousands upon thousands of people all at once. Sometimes it feels good to be a jerk.

Am I being dogmatic about this? Yes. But I also have a solution for those occasions when you want tomato bruschetta in the off season. Below, I'll explain both ways to do it, using fresh tomatoes for those few weeks or months when they're truly ripe and flavorful, and using canned tomatoes and an oven for the rest of the year.Bruschetta is one of those foods that are so fundamentally simple that there's no hope of hiding mediocre ingredients behind technique or presentation.

I like to use a mix of heirloom varieties, which offer not only a confetti-like rainbow of colors but also a blend of flavors; some sweeter, some more tart. Some can be fleshier paste tomatoes, like plums, while others can be juicy with seeds. I even like to toss in a couple of handfuls of sliced cherry tomatoes, to get other shapes aside from cubes.

I also prefer not to mix minced garlic into the tomatoes, since the bits of raw garlic can sometimes taste too harsh. I find I get better control over the level of garlic flavor by making what the Italians call, in which you rub raw cloves into the toasts themselves before drizzling them with olive oil. The cloves dissolve as you rub the toast with them, and you can add as much or as little as you like, while ensuring that each bite of the toast and tomatoes has an equal amount.

A splash of wine vinegar mixed into the tomatoes is a better choice than poor-quality faux balsamic. If you have real balsamic vinegar , then feel free to drizzle it onto the tomato-topped toasts at the end. I chop the oven-roasted tomatoes, then mix them with fresh basil, olive oil, and wine vinegar. It's difficult to give an exact quantity for the vinegar, because this will depend heavily on the flavor of the specific canned tomatoes you're using.

 

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