is just over a year old, and already there have been seismic changes in the kitchen. Founding chef Gilles Epié exited in January, and soon after, Sébastien Giannini stepped into his place, launching a completely different menu. While it’s hard not to miss Epié’s elegant takes on foie gras and Chateaubriand, Giannini’s creative, Riviera-inspired approach has its merits.
Could this really have been a Booeymonger just last year? The counter at the front of this rustic bistro is the only sign of the snug space’s former life as a 50-year-old deli. Two restaurant-vet couples—Stephen Starr and Keith McNally’s bistro in Union Market—a replica of its New York sibling—has a buzzy dining room and huge, hit-or-miss menu. Case in point: A New York strip was not only too salty but also tough and chewy.
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