12 hours overnight at one of Chicago’s last 24/7 diners

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Danny Gustafson sits quietly at the counter, sipping a milky coffee. He stares at the wall and twiddles an unlit cigarette in his fingers. It’s 3:58 a.m. His mind wanders. He remembers his late fa…

Server Susan Bivins delivers an order of pancakes at 9:59 p.m. at the Golden Apple Grille & Breakfast House on June 22, 2024. Bivins has worked at the restaurant for 30 years.

A group of diners protect themselves from rain at 11:39 p.m. upon leaving the Golden Apple in Chicago’s Lakeview neighborhood, June 22, 2024. The 24/7 diner, one of Chicago’s last, hasn’t hung a closed sign on its doors in more than five decades. Yes,. Just ask manager Pete Evangelou, who insists the doors can’t lock. He’s a man of few words. As diners vanish across the country, the Golden Apple offers a daily tableau of city life. It’s a quintessentially American institution, a deeply egalitarian place. ” chronicled an entire day at the diner. The Tribune recently spent 12 hours inside, from 5 p.m. Saturday to 5:26 a.m.

Beginning in the 1970s, however, fast-food chains became steep competition. Thousands of diners shuttered their doors. Recent years have brought additional obstacles, from the COVID-19 pandemic to the rise of online food ordering apps, such as Uber Eats and GrubHub. Its laminated menus are several pages and the servings are massive. Want an omelet? It comes with a heaping pile of fries. Oh, and two slices of bread. And don’t forget coffee.

She recognizes a group of 20-somethings that walk in and sit at the front booth. Some of them call her, “Ma.” Diego Hernandez and Alexandra Lopez say grace at 11:30 p.m. before having a late dinner with their daughter, Abigail Hernandez, 18 months, at the Golden Apple in Chicago’s Lakeview neighborhood on June 22, 2024. The family travels in from Buffalo Grove on occasion to dine at the restaurant. His finger traces one paragraph, over and over again.

 

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