Why Crete’s soul lies in its highlands

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For Cretans, the real island is not to be found at the seaside. Neil McQuillian heads for the hills in search of authenticity

ome people up here have never seen the ocean,” Kostas says as we enter a village called Apladiana. He points to its roadside name sign; it is pocked with bullet holes. “See that?” he says. “It tells people, ‘We have guns’.”

 

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