and for AW20, the french designer time travelled back to the medieval times for Ann Demeulemeester’s latest collection. The collection revolved around the fabled and poetic unicorn - the proud and untamable creature was printed across the jersey garments - whilst a myriad of medieval clothing techniques galloped down the runway.
Gilded metal wires garnished several looks, giving the showgoers an insight into what an armour for a modern Jeanne D’Arc would like in 2020. These comely wire embellishments also appeared as a crown for several of the looks, dancing in the wind as the collection grew in size. Buttery asphalt toned leather trousers were paired with mischievous high slit dresses and topped off with platform shoes that could very well be Ann Demeulemeester's take on a unicorn hoof.
The restrictive girdle of medieval times was brought back to life and recontextualised as trousers for AW20 with waist trainer-like eye and lock detailing, worn with custard, white and blood-red ruched and asymmetric tunics - an Ann Demeulemeester staple. The collection also featured asymmetric pinafore dresses and floor-length gowns in virgin white, partnered with chartreuse and blood-coloured coats and shorts that transcended the collection from the battlefield to the ballroom.
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