Designer Gherardo Felloni on reinventing Roger Vivier, the inventor of the stiletto | LOVE

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'What people see in rogervivier is happiness,' shares Gherardo Felloni on taking the reins.

, the geniuses behind you that can help you do the right thing.’ In summary, he’s independent and free, and that constitutes a challenge. ‘I have to put a lot of energy in presentation and in the products. I propose and I must rely on and trust myself. I have to be assured because my team needs to believe in me, for then the press and the clients to believe in me as well.’

Having the future of Roger Vivier in his hands must trigger anxiety, I wonder. How much pressure is the happy man under? ‘Pressure stimulates me to work. I try to have a good relationship with it even though sometimes it might take over, especially when it comes to working with a budget,’ he says with a smile, still. So, what does Roger Vivier mean to people today? ‘What people see in Roger Vivier is happiness. And that’s important. It’s not really a conceptual brand.

Gherardo is right: the fashion industry has done tremendous work to evolve in the past decade. Mistakes are still made, incidents happen, but the future is bright. And is there a form of responsibility? ‘It’s not for fashion to lead the way. I don’t think so. I think artists have more power in that regard.’ Fashion designers are not artists; the age-old debate. Fashion, Gherardo states, ‘is applied art. If anything, our role is to help people understand the world we live in.

We speak about the women who inspire him. ‘Young people inspire me. That’s why I want to propose new things – they have a completely new vision of the world, and they can afford and understand luxury.’ But Ines de la Fressange andare his top muses. ‘As we say in Italian, they move the air when they enter a room. I cannot explain it.’ He stands, lights a cigarette, offers me one.

I could not stop smiling, sometimes stupidly at strangers in the street, for the rest of the day. Gherardo Felloni’s joie-de-vivre is contagious and we’re glad to spread it.

 

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