The autumn/winter 2024 edition of Milan Fashion Week was bookended by the same idea: to acknowledge the internet’s role in the fashion circus. At the top of the week, Glenn Martens backdropped his catwalk against an enormous Zoom grid – populated with the faces of almost 1,000 live spectators – while Beate Karlsson’s closing presentation featured two screens displaying some of the hate comments that her brand Avavav has received since its inception in 2017.
Sabato de Sarno also sought to ground his sophomore Gucci collection in the real world – in a wardrobe that women could walk into without having to think too much about, well, the real world. Sometimes a nice coat – stitched with dégradé paillettes and worn without trousers – is enough to make someone feel human. “My dreams, as with my fashion, always converse with reality,” he wrote in his show notes.
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