, a man of his time who also personifies and amplifies the times in the way that Calvin Klein once did. And while there is also that heady mix of celebrity, sex and scandal in what Marc does –added to the best and most creativemid-life crisis in fashion history –he is far more than the zeitgeist, a time-ghost clattering about the clutter of contemporary existence in New York.
We’re always going back to certain items we’ve done in the past,’ continues Marc. ‘The Forties dress, the grunge sweater, the glam shoe... It was Peter Miles [the art director behind the look of the Marc Jacobs campaigns] who came into the studio and said, “Just call it ‘The’.”’ This rather facetious, off-the-cuff remark –Peter Miles is British,
as many around MJ are –led to the natural flow of a line and a collection that are not so much a line and a collection, certainly not in the conventional sense. ‘We were looking at the graphics, the story, a list of items we wanted to do again, rather than a coordinated collection,’ confirms Marc. ‘We were looking at our archive of flea-market finds, found objects in that Margiela Replica sense, but done in our way.
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