unar New Year might bring to mind festivals and fireworks, but I’ve always associated it with a kind of isolation. Long before the pandemic, long before the rest of America learned about sriracha and pho, I grew up in a Vietnamese refugee family in a mostly white town in Michigan.
Since then, I’ve watched Lunar New Year become known to most Americans as Chinese New Year. I’ve watched it become an activity in my kids’ schools, a lesson in ethnicity by way of dumplings, fried rice, fortune cookies—whatever seems vaguely Asian, like that wonton font we can’t seem to get away from. I wouldn’t say that we Asians in America are used to being essentialized by food, but we’re never surprised by it.
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