Maria Grazia Chiuri Pays Homage to Former Dior Designer Marc Bohan

It was the early years of Bohan – his ‘Slim’ look of 1961, specifically – that inspired Chiuri’s silhouettes: short, sharp, brightly-coloured, in luxurious couture fabrics. But Chiuri re-engineered them for now, creating techno satins mixed with recycled nylon and using sportswear techniques to, for instance, embossed rather than quilt a carnage pattern into a Mod mini-coat, or craft Mary Jane shoes with the lightness and flexibility of a sneaker.

The venue itself was happily pop-coloured, too – designed by the artist Anna Paparatti, a Roman artist who came to prominence in the 1960s, using her work to explore ideas of play and games as windows to the imagination. So the Dior models shifted around a giant gaming board – a version of the 16th-century Italian unicursal race game Jeu de L’Oie, or Game of Goose – as if each was a pawn. Chiuri described the fashion show as a game, or as a performance, with everyone playing their own part.

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