’s occasional expert face-stuffers – has felt at times like a particularly brutal act of self-inflicted poetic justice. The judger has become the judged. And my casual, early-lockdown notion that, guided by my mum over Zoom, I might recreate some of the dishes I grew up on has turned from a fun diversion into something messier, literally and figuratively; something that has caused me to spend wakeful nights fretting over the consistency of my jollof rice.
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