Duro Olowu On The Enduring Allure Of Feminist Artist Emma Amos

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The designer was inspired by the late African American artist and feminist for his spring/summer 2021 collection..

I remember being captivated by the artist’s use of bold, vivid colour in her fantastic paintings, collages and prints the first time I stood in front of one of her large early canvases. It was the opening of the exhibition ‘Soul of A Nation: Art in the Age of Black Power’ at Tate Modern in 2016. The painting was ‘Eva the Babysitter’ , a beautifully composed and executed portrait that features Amos’s daughter as a child.

Amos’s life-long ability to powerfully challenge sexism and racism in her work, as well as her pioneering and striking use of colour, fabrics and photo montage, went on to inspire my spring/summer 2021 collection.

I was inspired to learn a little more about Amos, and I found evidence of endless enthusiasm and creativity. Born in Atlanta, Georgia, Amos attended segregated schools before entering Antioch University in Ohio where she studied art. She came to London for her fourth year abroad to study painting, weaving and printmaking at the London Central School of Art.

In the 1960s, while living in New York, Amos became the youngest and only female member of Spiral, an important African American collective of artists founded by Romare Bearden and Hale Woodruff. She later joined the legendary feminist artist collective, Guerrilla Girls.She supported herself and her family as an illustrator, rug designer and teacher.

While designing my collection, I found myself reflecting on the fact that many of the same issues of race and gender inequality Amos experienced and confronted in her work, throughout an almost 60-year-long career, are still sadly very much issues that plague society today.

 

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