Helen Rosner reviews Ramen by Ra, a one-woman operation by Rasheeda Purdie, in the Bowery Market, serving American-breakfast-themed ramen.
Ramen by Ra, named for its owner, Rasheeda Purdie, is a one-woman operation. Along with being the namesake, Purdie is the head chef, sous-chef, host, captain, busser, and dishwasher. Such lean staffing is something of a necessity: the Bowery Market, a onetime auto-body shop on a busy NoHo corner, hosts four near-microscopic food stalls arranged around a broad open-air passageway.
Before becoming a chef, Purdie worked for a decade as a stylist at the late department store Henri Bendel, and on her lunch breaks she often went to a deli that had a ramen stand tucked in alongside the sandwich counter and salad bar.
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