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Young Thai chefs shake up Bangkok's food scene

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'Before, people thought that Thai food was cheap street food, and we only thought of fine dining as French or Italian. 'I wanted to change that concept, (to show) Thai food as a refined and elevated cuisine.'

The 38-year-old, known as Chef Ton, is one of a group of top young cooks creating a buzz around fine dining in the capital, traditionally known for its affordable and spicy local fare.

"Before, people thought that Thai food was cheap street food, and we only thought of fine dining as French or Italian.Highlights of his four-course and six-course tasting menus include a twist on traditional rice dish Khao Chae, made with a shrimp and pork pate, pickled radish and jasmine ice cream. His signature river prawn, with pork belly jam and shrimp-paste organic rice, channels his favourite street food.

The 33-year-old's favourite childhood street food dish, the Chinese-influenced goose stew, sparked the initial idea for the restaurant.Two-week aged duck with five spices, Surat Thani oyster with vinegar pearls, and crab with black pepper jam are among the standouts of her 20-course menu. Thailand is among the most expensive countries for fine dining, said Bangkok-based food critic Siriwatoo Ruksakiati, but"there are certain elements missing, such as the quality of service".

 

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