Johor royal family member's authentic opor ayam and laksa Johor for Raya

For their Raya get-together, everyone in Balkis' family contributes a dish, and the table often includes Johor staples like laksa Johor, lodeh and opor ayam, as well as other dishes like dendeng, rendang ayam and sambal sotong. Photos: YAP CHEE HONG/The Star

“Pleease can I have some of this?” begs 11-year-old Mohd Ian Shafiq, pointing in the direction of Balkis’ signature cempedak kek lapis. Although he has been promised some after lunch, he returns repeatedly to try his luck until Balkis finally relents and lets him have a small piece before his meal. He leaves, a satisfied smile on his face.

Born in Johor, Balkis and her family are members of the Johor royal family who moved to the Klang Valley in the 1970s. But their passion for heritage Johor food has never wavered, inspired at least in part by the indomitable Esah’s talent for cooking these meals. The spaghetti is layered with a rich, thick gravy made up of fresh fish like ikan parang dried shrimps, coconut milk and curry powder as well as aromatics like ginger, lemongrass, garlic and onions.

Over the years, Balkis has tried teaching her sisters and nieces how to make her laksa Johor but the verdict has been unanimous: no one else’s version has ever come close to hers. Balkis learnt how to make a range of Johor dishes for Hari Raya from her octogenarian mother Esah, a formidable home cook.

Esah’s opor ayam features tender chicken coated in a thick gravy that is redolent of coconut milk, kerisik, kurma powder, spices and aromatics all melding fluidly together to create rich, tropical notes with hints of the flavour nuances of the Indian sub-continent.

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